/* ═══════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════
   Before You Travel · Ambassador
   Palette, typography and rhythm taken 1:1 from the main page (index.html):
   warm sand paper, midnight ink, gold accents, Cormorant Garamond + Manrope,
   hand-built girih pattern. Shared by the section index and the 8 articles.
   ═══════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════ */
:root{
  --paper:      oklch(94.5% 0.013 84);
  --paper-2:    oklch(91% 0.018 82);
  --sand:       oklch(82.5% 0.026 78);
  --clay:       oklch(69% 0.045 70);
  --taupe:      oklch(58% 0.028 75);
  --ink:        oklch(24% 0.024 277);
  --ink-2:      oklch(38% 0.022 275);
  --gold:       oklch(71% 0.085 84);
  --gold-deep:  oklch(58% 0.09 82);
  --gold-read:  oklch(48% 0.105 80);
  --clay-read:  oklch(56% 0.05 68);
  --rule:       oklch(86% 0.02 80);
  --focus:      oklch(55% 0.1 82);
  --font-display:"Cormorant Garamond",Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;
  --font-body:"Manrope",-apple-system,"Segoe UI",Roboto,"Helvetica Neue",sans-serif;
  --ease-out:cubic-bezier(.22,.8,.36,1);
  --dur:.6s;
  --wrap:1080px;
  --read:720px;
}
*{margin:0;padding:0;box-sizing:border-box}
html{scroll-behavior:smooth}
html,body{overflow-x:clip;max-width:100%}
body{background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font-family:var(--font-body);font-weight:300;
  font-size:1.02rem;line-height:1.7;-webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased}
img{max-width:100%;display:block}
a{color:inherit;text-decoration:none}
::selection{background:var(--gold);color:var(--paper)}
h1,h2,h3,p,li{overflow-wrap:anywhere;min-width:0}

body[data-lang="en"] .ru{display:none!important}
body[data-lang="ru"] .en{display:none!important}

/* ── girih pattern (blind deboss) ── */
.pattern{position:absolute;inset:0;pointer-events:none;opacity:.5;
  background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' width='96' height='96' viewBox='0 0 96 96'%3E%3Cg fill='none' stroke='%23b8a88e' stroke-opacity='.28' stroke-width='1'%3E%3Cpath d='M48 8 58 38 88 48 58 58 48 88 38 58 8 48 38 38Z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M48 26 54 42 70 48 54 54 48 70 42 54 26 48 42 42Z'/%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E");
  background-size:96px 96px;
  -webkit-mask-image:radial-gradient(120% 90% at 50% 10%,#000 30%,transparent 78%);
  mask-image:radial-gradient(120% 90% at 50% 10%,#000 30%,transparent 78%)}

/* ── top bar ── */
.bar{position:relative;z-index:40;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;
  gap:1rem;padding:1.05rem clamp(1.1rem,4vw,3rem);
  border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule);background:var(--paper)}
.wordmark{font-family:var(--font-display);font-size:1.25rem;font-weight:600;letter-spacing:.16em;
  text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--ink);white-space:nowrap}
.wordmark .dot{color:var(--gold)}
.wordmark:focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--focus);outline-offset:4px}
.barlinks{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:clamp(.8rem,2.4vw,1.9rem);font-size:.78rem;
  font-weight:400;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--taupe)}
.barlinks a{padding:.3rem 0;border-bottom:1px solid transparent;white-space:nowrap;
  transition:color var(--dur) var(--ease-out),border-color var(--dur) var(--ease-out)}
.barlinks a:hover{color:var(--ink);border-bottom-color:var(--gold)}
.barlinks a:focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--focus);outline-offset:4px;border-radius:2px}
.lang-switch{display:flex;gap:.15rem;border:1px solid var(--rule);border-radius:99px;padding:.15rem;flex:none}
.lang-switch button{appearance:none;border:0;background:none;cursor:pointer;font:inherit;
  font-size:.72rem;letter-spacing:.1em;padding:.25rem .7rem;border-radius:99px;color:var(--taupe)}
.lang-switch button[aria-pressed="true"]{background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper)}
.lang-switch button:focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--focus);outline-offset:2px}
@media(max-width:560px){
  .barlinks a.hide-s{display:none}
  .bar{padding-left:1rem;padding-right:1rem}
  .wordmark{font-size:1.08rem;letter-spacing:.12em}
}

/* ═══ SECTION HERO (index) ═══ */
.shero{position:relative;isolation:isolate;min-height:clamp(340px,54svh,540px);
  display:flex;align-items:flex-end;overflow:hidden;background:var(--sand)}
.shero .bg{position:absolute;inset:0;z-index:-2}
.shero .bg img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;filter:saturate(.9) contrast(.98)}
.shero .veil{position:absolute;inset:0;z-index:-1;
  background:linear-gradient(180deg,oklch(20% .02 60/.30) 0%,oklch(20% .02 60/.12) 32%,oklch(18% .02 60/.54) 62%,oklch(16% .02 60/.84) 100%)}
.shero-in{width:100%;max-width:var(--wrap);margin:0 auto;
  padding:3.4rem clamp(1.1rem,5vw,3rem) clamp(1.8rem,4vw,2.8rem);color:#fbf7f0}
.shero .kicker{font-size:.72rem;font-weight:500;letter-spacing:.32em;text-transform:uppercase;
  color:#f0dcb0;margin-bottom:.9rem;text-shadow:0 1px 8px rgba(12,11,9,.6)}
.shero h1{font-family:var(--font-display);font-weight:500;line-height:1.06;letter-spacing:.01em;
  font-size:clamp(2.4rem,7vw,4.4rem);text-shadow:0 2px 22px rgba(12,11,9,.5)}
.shero h1 em{font-style:italic;color:#f3d79a}
.shero .sub{margin-top:1rem;font-size:clamp(1rem,2.4vw,1.2rem);font-weight:300;max-width:46ch;
  color:#f2ece0;text-shadow:0 1px 12px rgba(12,11,9,.65)}
.gline{width:56px;height:1px;background:var(--gold);margin:0 0 1.3rem}
.shero .gline{background:#e2bd74;box-shadow:0 1px 8px rgba(12,11,9,.5)}

/* ═══ ARTICLE HERO ═══ */
.ahero{position:relative;isolation:isolate;min-height:clamp(300px,48svh,470px);
  display:flex;align-items:flex-end;overflow:hidden;background:var(--sand)}
.ahero .bg{position:absolute;inset:0;z-index:-2}
.ahero .bg img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;filter:saturate(.9) contrast(.98)}
.ahero .veil{position:absolute;inset:0;z-index:-1;
  background:linear-gradient(180deg,oklch(20% .02 60/.34) 0%,oklch(20% .02 60/.14) 30%,oklch(18% .02 60/.58) 62%,oklch(16% .02 60/.86) 100%)}
.ahero-in{width:100%;max-width:var(--wrap);margin:0 auto;
  padding:3rem clamp(1.1rem,5vw,3rem) clamp(1.6rem,3.6vw,2.4rem);color:#fbf7f0}
.ahero .crumbs{margin-bottom:1.4rem;color:#eadfc9;text-shadow:0 1px 8px rgba(12,11,9,.85),0 0 20px rgba(12,11,9,.5)}
.ahero .crumbs a:hover{color:#fff}
.ahero .crumbs .here{color:#f0dcb0}
.ahero .kicker{font-size:.72rem;font-weight:500;letter-spacing:.3em;text-transform:uppercase;
  color:#f0dcb0;margin-bottom:.85rem;text-shadow:0 1px 8px rgba(12,11,9,.6)}
.ahero h1{font-family:var(--font-display);font-weight:500;line-height:1.08;letter-spacing:.01em;
  font-size:clamp(2.1rem,5.6vw,3.6rem);max-width:20ch;text-shadow:0 2px 22px rgba(12,11,9,.5)}
.ahero h1 em{font-style:italic;color:#f3d79a}

/* Portrait photographs used in a wide frame: keep the subject, not the sky.
   The woman with the scarf stands low in the Kalyan frame; the market rows
   sit under the Chorsu dome — a centred crop cuts out exactly the part the
   page is about. */
.pos-bottom{object-position:50% 88%!important}
.pos-lower{object-position:50% 66%!important}

/* ── breadcrumb ── */
.crumbs{font-size:.7rem;font-weight:500;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;
  color:var(--taupe);display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.3rem .5rem;align-items:baseline}
.crumbs a{border-bottom:1px solid transparent;transition:color .3s,border-color .3s}
.crumbs a:hover{border-bottom-color:var(--gold)}
.crumbs .sep{color:var(--gold-read);opacity:.8}
.crumbs .here{color:var(--clay-read)}

/* ═══ ARTICLE BODY ═══ */
main{max-width:var(--read);margin:0 auto;padding:2rem clamp(1.1rem,5vw,2rem) 4rem}
main.wide{max-width:var(--wrap)}
.updated{font-size:.74rem;letter-spacing:.16em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--taupe)}

.answer{margin:1.6rem 0 0;padding:.3rem 0 .3rem 1.5rem;border-left:2px solid var(--gold);
  font-family:var(--font-display);font-weight:400;color:var(--ink);
  font-size:clamp(1.32rem,3.4vw,1.72rem);line-height:1.48}
.answer strong{font-weight:600}
.answer a{border-bottom:1px solid var(--gold)}
.answer a:hover{color:var(--gold-deep)}

h2.head{font-family:var(--font-display);font-weight:500;font-size:clamp(1.5rem,3.6vw,1.9rem);
  line-height:1.2;margin:3rem 0 0}
h2.head + .facts,h2.head + .cards,h2.head + p{margin-top:1.4rem}
h2.head::after{content:"";display:block;width:2.4rem;height:1px;background:var(--gold);margin-top:.75rem}

article p{margin:1.05rem 0;color:var(--ink-2)}
article p strong{color:var(--ink);font-weight:600}
article p a{border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule);transition:border-color .3s,color .3s}
article p a:hover{color:var(--gold-deep);border-bottom-color:var(--gold)}

/* ── light detail cards: the details, without a wall of text ── */
.facts{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:clamp(.9rem,2.2vw,1.4rem)}
.facts.one{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr)}
@media(max-width:620px){.facts{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr)}}
.fact{border:1px solid var(--rule);background:var(--paper);padding:1.3rem 1.35rem 1.4rem;
  transition:border-color var(--dur) var(--ease-out)}
.fact:hover{border-color:var(--clay)}
.fact h3{font-family:var(--font-display);font-weight:600;font-size:1.22rem;line-height:1.25;
  color:var(--ink);letter-spacing:.005em}
.fact h3::after{content:"";display:block;width:1.6rem;height:1px;background:var(--gold);margin:.55rem 0 .7rem}
.fact p{font-size:.95rem;color:var(--ink-2);margin:0}
.fact p + p{margin-top:.6rem}
.fact.span{grid-column:1/-1}

/* ── a quiet aside for practical notes ── */
.note{margin:1.6rem 0 0;padding:1.15rem 1.3rem;background:var(--paper-2);border:1px solid var(--rule);
  border-left:2px solid var(--gold)}
.note p{margin:0;font-size:.96rem;color:var(--ink-2)}
.note p strong{color:var(--ink);font-weight:600}

/* ── photo inside the body ── */
figure.shot{margin:2.6rem 0 0}
figure.shot .fr{overflow:hidden;background:var(--sand);aspect-ratio:16/9}
figure.shot img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;filter:saturate(.9) contrast(.98)}
figure.shot figcaption{margin-top:.7rem;font-family:var(--font-display);font-style:italic;
  font-size:1rem;color:var(--taupe)}
figure.shot.tall .fr{aspect-ratio:4/5}
@media(max-width:620px){figure.shot .fr{aspect-ratio:4/3}}

/* ═══ WHERE NEXT (cross-links) ═══ */
.next{margin-top:3.4rem;padding-top:2.2rem;border-top:1px solid var(--rule)}
.next .eyebrow{font-size:.72rem;font-weight:500;letter-spacing:.3em;text-transform:uppercase;
  color:var(--clay-read)}
.next h2{font-family:var(--font-display);font-weight:500;font-size:clamp(1.45rem,3.4vw,1.85rem);
  line-height:1.2;margin:.7rem 0 1.4rem;max-width:24ch}
.nextgrid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:clamp(.9rem,2.2vw,1.3rem)}
@media(max-width:620px){.nextgrid{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr)}}
.ncard{display:flex;flex-direction:column;border:1px solid var(--rule);background:var(--paper);
  padding:1.25rem 1.3rem 1.2rem;transition:border-color var(--dur) var(--ease-out)}
.ncard:hover{border-color:var(--gold)}
.ncard:focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--focus);outline-offset:4px}
.ncard .tag{font-size:.68rem;letter-spacing:.26em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--clay-read)}
.ncard h3{font-family:var(--font-display);font-weight:500;font-size:1.32rem;line-height:1.2;
  margin:.5rem 0 .4rem}
.ncard p{font-size:.9rem;color:var(--ink-2);margin:0}
.ncard .go{margin-top:auto;padding-top:1rem;font-size:.72rem;letter-spacing:.2em;text-transform:uppercase;
  color:var(--gold-read);display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:.5rem}
.ncard .go::after{content:"\2192";transition:transform var(--dur) var(--ease-out)}
.ncard:hover .go::after{transform:translateX(5px)}
.ncard.span{grid-column:1/-1}

/* ═══ CTA ═══ */
.cta{margin-top:3.2rem;padding:2.3rem clamp(1.2rem,4vw,2.4rem);border:1px solid var(--rule);
  background:var(--paper-2);text-align:center;position:relative;overflow:hidden}
.cta .pattern{opacity:.34}
.cta p{position:relative;font-family:var(--font-display);font-style:italic;font-size:clamp(1.15rem,2.8vw,1.35rem);
  line-height:1.5;color:var(--ink-2);max-width:36ch;margin:0 auto}
.cta .row{position:relative;margin-top:1.6rem;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.8rem;justify-content:center}
.btn{display:inline-block;padding:.85rem 1.7rem;font-size:.76rem;font-weight:500;letter-spacing:.2em;
  text-transform:uppercase;white-space:nowrap;transition:background .3s,color .3s,border-color .3s}
.btn.solid{background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper);border:1px solid var(--ink)}
.btn.solid:hover{background:var(--gold-deep);border-color:var(--gold-deep)}
.btn.ghost{border:1px solid var(--taupe);color:var(--ink)}
.btn.ghost:hover{border-color:var(--gold-deep);color:var(--gold-deep)}
.btn:focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--focus);outline-offset:3px}

/* ── previous / next article ── */
.pager{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:1rem;justify-content:space-between;margin-top:2.6rem;
  padding-top:1.5rem;border-top:1px solid var(--rule);font-size:.76rem;letter-spacing:.16em;
  text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--taupe)}
.pager a{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:.55rem;transition:color .3s}
.pager a:hover{color:var(--gold-deep)}
.pager .all{color:var(--clay-read)}

/* ═══ INDEX: the eight topics ═══ */
.grid-wrap{max-width:var(--wrap);margin:0 auto;padding:clamp(2.4rem,5vw,3.6rem) clamp(1.1rem,4vw,2.4rem) 4rem}
.lede{font-family:var(--font-display);font-size:clamp(1.25rem,3vw,1.6rem);line-height:1.5;
  color:var(--ink);max-width:34ch;margin:0 auto 2.6rem;text-align:center}
.lede em{font-style:italic;color:var(--gold-deep)}
.tgrid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:clamp(1rem,2.6vw,1.9rem)}
@media(max-width:680px){.tgrid{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr)}}
.tcard{position:relative;display:flex;flex-direction:column;background:var(--paper);
  border:1px solid var(--rule);transition:border-color var(--dur) var(--ease-out)}
.tcard:hover{border-color:var(--clay)}
.tcard:focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--focus);outline-offset:4px}
.tcard .ph{overflow:hidden;aspect-ratio:16/10;background:var(--sand)}
.tcard .ph img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;filter:saturate(.88) contrast(.98);
  transition:transform 1.2s var(--ease-out)}
.tcard:hover .ph img{transform:scale(1.035)}
.tcard .body{padding:clamp(1.3rem,3vw,1.8rem);display:flex;flex-direction:column;flex:1}
.tcard .idx{font-size:.7rem;letter-spacing:.3em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--clay-read)}
.tcard h2{font-family:var(--font-display);font-weight:500;font-size:clamp(1.45rem,3.4vw,1.7rem);
  line-height:1.15;margin:.55rem 0 .5rem}
.tcard p{font-size:.94rem;color:var(--ink-2);margin:0}
.tcard .go{margin-top:auto;padding-top:1.15rem;font-size:.74rem;letter-spacing:.2em;text-transform:uppercase;
  color:var(--gold-read);display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:.5rem}
.tcard .go::after{content:"\2192";transition:transform var(--dur) var(--ease-out)}
.tcard:hover .go::after{transform:translateX(5px)}

/* ═══ footer ═══ */
.hr-star{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:1rem;max-width:var(--wrap);margin:0 auto;
  padding:0 clamp(1.1rem,5vw,2rem)}
.hr-star::before,.hr-star::after{content:"";flex:1;height:1px;background:var(--rule)}
.hr-star span{color:var(--gold);font-size:.9rem}
footer{max-width:var(--wrap);margin:0 auto;padding:1.7rem clamp(1.1rem,5vw,2rem) 3rem;text-align:center;
  font-size:.72rem;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--taupe)}
footer .fl{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.6rem 1.6rem;justify-content:center;margin-top:.9rem}
footer .fl a{transition:color .3s}
footer .fl a:hover{color:var(--gold-deep)}

@media (prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){
  *{transition:none!important;animation:none!important}
  html{scroll-behavior:auto}
}