Chapter 05

Food & Dining

Updated: 9 August 2026

Short answer: eat bravely — Uzbek cuisine is half the journey. Plov, warm bread straight from the tandyr and green tea are the minimum worth travelling for. Alcohol is freely sold, and local wine appears on restaurant lists.

What to try

Plov

The national dish: rice, carrots, onions and lamb, with its own character in every city. Samarkand and Tashkent cook it differently — a reason to try both.

Bread (non)

From the tandyr, hot, at every table. Samarkand's is famously dense and beautiful; travellers carry it home as a souvenir.

Samsa

Flaky pastries from the tandyr with meat, pumpkin or potato.

Lagman

A rich noodle soup with meat and vegetables.

Shashlik

Grilled skewers with onions and bread, nothing extra.

Tea

The centre of the table: green in summer, black in winter. The bowl is offered and received with the right hand; the host pours the first bowls back into the pot — it is a ritual, not a mistake.

Chaikhana tables under old trees beside the still water of the Lyabi-Hauz pond in Bukhara, a madrasah behind
Tables by the water in Bukhara — the kind of lunch that quietly takes the afternoon with it.

The chaikhana

Not a café but a way of life: people come to eat, talk and take their time. Lunch in a chaikhana belongs on every itinerary.

Alcohol

Freely sold: local wine and beer are in shops and restaurants.

Tipping

In many restaurants a service charge is already included in the bill. Where it isn't, a small tip for good service is appreciated — but never expected.

Meat-free is easy — and delicious

Many restaurants offer vegetarian dishes or will happily cook to request — you only need to ask. And the local table is generous in itself: samsa with pumpkin, potato, spinach and herbs; vegetable dishes and salads; tandyr bread; seasonal fruit, nuts and dried fruit. The bazaars are richer than any menu.

Where next

A table is an experience, not a stop

The best stories of a journey are told at a table someone kept for you.